24 Hours In Boston
The Sunday Age
Sunday July 27, 2008
Boston charms with a human scale all too lacking in other big American cities. Its picturesque centre and distinct neighbourhoods are a walker's nirvana.
8amBreakfast on Newbury Street. Running the length of Back Bay, a gracious, 19th-century neighbourhood, Newbury has been dubbed "the Rodeo Drive of the east" though its brownstone aesthetic is a far cry from Beverly Hills. Steve's, a down-home Greek place, is an anomaly in this pricey strip: great value and open early. Fuel up: Newbury is the epicentre of some serious shopping.Steve's Greek Cuisine, 316 Newbury St. Tel: 267 1817.9amRetail therapy in Boston is not for the faint-hearted. Pamplona's Running of the Bulls has little on the "Running of the Brides" at the famous Filene's bridal sale (record for clearing the racks: 37 seconds). A Boston institution since 1909, Filene's Basement on Boylston Street has an entrance on Newbury Street and the same bargains as the flagship store on Washington Street, closed for renovations until 2009.Filene's Basement, 497 Boylston St. Tel: 424 5520.10amFollow the red-lined Freedom Trail, which starts in Boston Common and winds for about four kilometres through some of the oldest streets in America, taking in sites that played starring roles in the American Revolution. Boston's lead in the anti-slavery movement is commemorated on the Black Heritage Trail. Pick up brochures and maps from the African Meeting House. All 15 sites on this trail are in beautiful Beacon Hill, with its cobbled lanes, narrow townhouses and gas street-lamps. This is the patrician Boston of Henry James, stomping ground of the "Boston Brahmin".Freedom Trail Information, Boston Common. Tel: 242 5695. African Meeting House, 46 Joy St. Free tours daily. Tel: 742 1854.NoonBack on Beacon Street, across the road from the sun-dappled Public Garden, is an all-too familiar building where everybody knows your name - yep, the Cheers bar. Last drinks were called on the series in 1993, but try telling that to the souveniring crowds. Not much more elbow room at Ye Olde Union Oyster House, America's oldest restaurant (from 1826), but no better place to chow down on classic New England clam chowder.The Bull & Finch Pub, 84 Beacon St. Tel: 227 9605, cheersboston.com. Ye Olde Union Oyster House, 41 Union St. Tel: 227 2750. unionoysterhouse.com1pmTake yourself out to the ball park. The treasured Fenway Park, home of the Red Sox, is a vision of yesteryear with its real grass, red-brick building and cosy dimensions (less than 40,000 capacity). Tickets to baseball games (April to late September) are hard to come by, but year-round tours of "America's quinessential ball park" tell you all you ever wanted to know about Pesky's Pole, the Green Monster and the infamous Curse of the Bambino - finally lifted after 86 years when the Red Sox won the 2004 World Series. Sports-crazed Boston has a team in all the big leagues, but no venue symbolises the city like Fenway Park.Fenway Park, 4 Yawkey Way. Tel: 236 6666. Hourly tours between 9am-4pm, 7 days, $12/10 adults/children. redsox.com2.30pmBoston is synonymous with the Kennedy clan. The John F. Kennedy Library and Museum is the central shrine to the 1000 days of the Kennedy presidency, and the stark, sentinel building by I.M. Pei is alone worth the trip to Columbia Point. But for a more intimate Kennedy encounter, head for JFK's childhood home in Brookline. The handsome, three-level wood home was acquired by the family again in the mid-'60s and restored by matriarch Rose Kennedy to its 1917 appearance (the year of JFK's birth) as a memorial to her slain son. Poignant items include the toddler dining setting of the future president. The tour, with audio narration by Rose Kennedy, ends with family movies and souvenir JFK campaign badges. John F. Kennedy National Historic Site, 83 Beals St, Brookline. Tel: 566 7937. April to mid-November, Wed-Sun 10am-4.30pm, nps.gov/jofi4pmCross the Charles River and wander through hallowed Harvard University (1636), the alma mater of six US presidents. Pop into the Co-op and pick up that essential Harvard windcheater for your toddler. Harvard Square, the tangle of streets above the Harvard T (subway) stop, is the bustling commercial hub, packed with affordable eateries, clubs, galleries and more than 20 bookshops. For a toasty snack, head to Tea Luxe, just off Harvard Square and the biggest thing in tea since the Boston Tea Party. The Co-op at Harvard Square, 1400 Massachusetts Ave, open 7 days. Tel: 499 2000, the coop.com; Tealuxe, 1 Brattle St. Tel: 441 0077, tealuxe.com. 5.30pmOn showpiece Commonwealth Avenue is a handsome, bay-windowed Victorian brownstone that houses the College Club of Boston. Founded in 1890 as a gathering place for college-educated women, the CC has thrown open its antique doors and charms to travellers. There are just six double rooms (king beds and private bath) and five singles (shared bath). Each room is unique, breakfast is included and you can't beat the location or value.The College Club of Boston, 44 Commonwealth Ave. Singles $90-$125; doubles $150-$250. Tel: 536 9510; thecollegeclubofboston.com.7pmHop on the T to Haymarket for dinner in the North End, Boston's Little Italy, with its 50-plus Italian eateries offering everything from rosticceria to elegant private dining rooms. This is the place to eat lobster ravioli. Giacomo's is one of the places where you're likely to see a queue, both for the quality of its seafood and its no-reservations policy. But service is brisk and the grilled tuna and swordfish steaks are worth the wait. Giacomo's Ristorante, 355 Hanover St. Tel: 523 9026; cash only. -- Suzi Petkovski
© 2008 The Sunday Age